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You would think that in a lingering recession, the real urgency at Per Se would come from money matters, from the natural inclination of budget-conscious eaters to set aside their Visas for the moment and sate themselves on $13 Kung Pao chicken dinners instead of on a menu whose base cost is $275 a head. But in fact, the kitchen — 5,000 steel-and-tile square feet of it — is a lesson in the little-known field of gastro-economics: When it comes…

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